The Sonia by Sonia Rykiel collection for Autumn Winter 2015 is a rebellious call-and-response across the English Channel, where Rykiel’s insouciant Parisienne meets the spirit of British post-punk. Ladylike, Rive Gauche sensibilities are twisted and untamed, invoking the irreverent attitude of The Slits’ guitarist Viv Albertine – an underground heroine of the music scene who mixed and matched men’s wear with a romantic femininity.
A sense of graphic and textural contrast can be found throughout, as delicate lace and boyish checks are fused in eccentric combinations of cherry red, sun yellow, emerald, orange, camel, navy, and black. Sonia’s signatures are revisited and remixed, with plush faux fur cut into giant striped scarves, and coats swirling with baroque florals or panelled with felt wool. Those stripes scale up and down; Breton-style as a shell knit shift dress bordered with matte lace, later figuring large across cardigans banded in fuzzy mohair. Dense texture continues as car coats in compact knit or reversible shearling, and a blurry, brushed check is cut into masculine blazers and a tailored cape.
Linear plays of proportion draw the eye to wool sweaters cropped at the bust, or decorated with split crewneck collars and asymmetric ruffles, just as the geometric contours of a leather perfecto and miniskirt are accented in bright piping. The punk symbolism of studs and stars are scattered across cutout tops or jacquard knits, and paper clip jewelry is given a luxurious twist sprinkled with diamantes, whilst touches of patent leather add slick shine to calf-length boots and elastic Mary Janes.